The kit includes all the bits and pieces you’ll need to do the retrofit. This will save you trips to the hardware store and shipping costs from specialized radio parts suppliers. Here is what’s provided
Power Supply (120/220V). Note that the kit does not include an AC power cord. Just use a cord from an old computer or monitor.
Anti-static wrist strap. Wear it whenever you touch the PCB or connect wires to the terminals.
On/Off/Volume potentiometers (pots) replace the original pots. They mount in the metal radio chassis. You can also mount them to the wooden cabinet face using the supplied pot mounting plates.
PCB mounting screws and spacers.
Incandescent or LED bulbs replace the original dial lights.
The aux panel switch and audio jack are used for auxilary audio sources such as CD players or turntables. They are typically mounted on the rear of the radio chassis.
Wire is used to connect the switches, lights, and speaker to the PCB. The wiring diagram shows where each color should be used.
Uninsulated Buss wire is used to create a convenient ground rail in the radio chassis.
Heat shrink tubing insulates splices wire joints. When heated it will shrink snugly around the splice. Many online sources show how to apply heat.
Small zip ties are used to bundle the wires between the PCB and chassis for a clean appearance.
The large zip tie, D-rings, and screws are used to secure the power supply to the cabinet
The pot adapter plates and screws can be used to mount the pots to the cabinet face instead of the the metal chassis. Use these if the chassis of your radio is missing.